Saturday, August 20, 2011

Avignon, Food and Jazz

An early morning start leaving Nice meant that we arrived in Avignon around lunchtime. We endured the tedious process of checking into our hostel with the lady that refused to speak English. We eventually found our rooms, which were separate male and female dorms. I questioned her after our check in and pointed to my ring finger and Rick’s ring finger. She shook her head furiously and walked away.  Definitely why we got married, so we could stay in separate dorms, right?

So, we grabbed lunch and headed down by the Rhone River to eat lunch in the shade of a tree, along with two young lads playing some incredible guitar.  We read our books and had a lazy afternoon and were serenaded to sleep by the two guitarists.

That evening, after the intense heat had subsided, we ventured into the walled city of Avignon, a UNESCO world heritage site, with some serious charm and character. We wandered the streets, and did away with the map and stumbled upon the most typically French area, untouched by the swarms of tourists and Irish pubs. We couldn’t really negotiate the menu’s at the restaurants, so we decided it was the perfect place to eat.

We sat down and ordered, Rick the Beouf Tartare and the Chevre Quiche for myself. Well I was just beside myself; with tears overflowing and my eyes tightly shut I was sure that I had just tasted heaven… incredible flavours, and the most perfect combination of ingredients. All the while the owner/ operator is having a ciggie with the owner of the restaurant next door.

When we left, Rick spied a sign next door with “live Jazz”, we made plans to return the following night. The girls in my dorm came with us the next night and we went to the same restaurant. All of us were melting with the delicious food that was served to us. Post dinner we went to see the jazz band who had set up on the curb, and we downed a few ‘desperado’s’. The perfect night and one of the highlights of our trip, Avignon will always have a special place in our heart.

Oh and for the record, Rick never had any room mates, so they put a married couple in separate dorms, even though one dorm was completely empty? Needless to say I sneaked in on the last night!

Xx Jaz

Wednesday, August 17, 2011

Lauterbrunnen - Lake Como - Nice

Lauterbrunnen - Lake Como - Nice

A stunning trip through Switzerland, and through the Italian and French Riviera bringing us to Nice.


In Nice we experienced our first taste of mass white pointers, or topless sun bathing. Mothers quite literally hanging out... With their kids. We copped an eyeful quite often!


Our days were filled with heading to the market, and to the beach. There is a great path down the length of the beach so we hired a bike and a long board and towed eachother up and down the beach front.

We had some great room mates while in Nice and some great cocktails with a cute Swedish couple.


Our highlight of Nice was definitely the weird busker. Nice had so many talented buskers; musicians, actors, dancers and every hybrid you can imagine. However, one afternoon we were enjoying lunch after a few hours on the beach and a boy, maybe 17 or so, awkwardly drags a wooden pallet along the street and sets it up near the restaurant we were at. He stands on his 'podium', and freeze frames with one arm raised.

Bearing in mind it's about 2pm and it was a scorcher of a day, he got really hot, and after 10 mins and no donations he decided it was time for a ciggie.

His nicotine habit dealt with, he clambered back on his stage and did a few movements we can only guess was meant to be robot-esque. After another 10 mins, with random intervals where he puts his hands on his hips, looks around and then re-positions himself, he makes a move to somewhere else where is more opportune... dragging his darn pallet behind him...


Xx Jaz




Sunday, August 14, 2011

Firenze, Zurich and Senf Man

Our introduction to Florence, or shall we say Firenze since we're in Italy, was not the best. We missed our 8am bus from Rome - Florence. We organised a train ticket online and headed to the Metro and then train station. We met a nice Italian family on the journey, and we had a conversation with our limited Italian and their limited English. We exchanged snacks and laughs. Once we got to Florence we had to find our two bus connections to our Hostel. We finally arrived at our most social hostel we have stayed at, not to mention there was only about 20 people in the whole hostel. We had dinner and then drinks in the park with half the hostel, so nice! We had some interesting entertainment in the park, as the father of the Italian girls will not allow them to bring their boyfriends home, and the Italian boys don't bring girls home to their mama, they end up being very public with their public displays of affection. Wow is all that is blog-appropriate!

After much investigation of the markets, Rick invested in his dream leather man satchel and I discovered an amazing check man shirt in a second hand stall... It's all about the man clothes!


We had a great lunch with a couple we met in a cafe, we had a two or three hour conversation with them about our trip and their lives and about Albania where the woman was from. I also discovered my taste for artichokes, so so good on toasted bread with Ricotta and a sly glass of Red on the side. Times like these is why we quit our jobs.


We signed up for a tour of Tuscany, with a day trip to Siena and San Gimignano. Postcard views and heartbreaking architecture, it was exactly what we imagined. We finished the day with a wine tasting, the old Italian man who ran it was hilarious!


We had a great lunch with a couple we met in a cafe, we had a two or three hour conversation with them about our trip and their lives and about Albania where the woman was from.


Another revolution was the book that Rick picked up from the hostel, which he read in six days.  This from a man who has never been a reader!  Goes to show we are craving to learn again, and to entertain our brains.


Next stop was Milano! I'd dreamed of walking the high fashion streets for so long, and we were finally there! Crazy to see Giorgio Armani's full block of shops... Complete with his multiple fashion lines, homeware range and the Armani cafe. This guy!!


We continued on with an incredibly scenic train ride into Switzerland. Beautiful crystal clear lakes and amazing yachts, and the mountains reminding us of home. We arrived in Zurich and grabbed tickets to Winterthur, where Rick's friend Ben from NZ is living. We stayed with him for the weekend, and partied with the locals at the annual Zurich Street Parade, where we were told to dress in our best "bi sexual" outfit. Not something you generally pack in your 75 Litre backpack, but a bit of trusty yellow paint, and Rick became "Senf Man", that is "mustard man".


The rumours are true; we found Switzerland to be unbelievably expensive. We're talking 11 Francs for a diner kebab. That's NZ$15!! We spent about $300 on train tickets in one weekend, luckily we had the generous hospitality of Ben, so accommodation was free for a couple of nights.


After Winterthur, we trained to Lauterbrunnen. Again a stunningly scenic trip and stayed a few days in the valleys between two mountains. Delicious fresh air and beautiful snow topped peaks, we'd love to go back in winter!


Xx Jaz

 

Tuesday, August 9, 2011

A day on the Bus, Venice to Rome

So daily life in the bus..Today we leave Venice for Rome...




7:45 am
Check in with guide and reserve seat.. The busses have power sockets in the middle only so to charge iPod and laptop you need to get in early and a seat near by. The 8am starts arnt ideal!!


8:00am
Bus departs for the days trip. Usually quite long days, 7- 10 hours some up to 14-16 hours. But due to E.U law they have regular breaks every 2-2.5hrs. So it's something to eat and pee then repeat again a few times.


9:33am
There are two buses on our route today so it's luxury as with spare seats. We chose the non express bus cos it's a sneaky way to see more of the country for free. Especially with the stops you can have a quick walk around 3 more city's that you would have and all for free(relatively speaking).


Driving along the plains away from Venice, hundreds fields of crops and orchards, old 2 story tile roofed  Italian houses painted in typical pastel tones. Some houses are now abandoned and quietly falling down without too much fuss. I want to buy them and live there. We pass a few factories and see grand castles in the distance and a few close to the road.


10:22
We stop at our first autogrill, an italian intsution steps above the BP connect. No pies but enough paninis filled with procuito and mozerlla to feed the hundreds of Italians stopping for their caffe!! After elbowing our way thru the italians we ordered in italian!! Boom! It was delicious.


A few more service stops and we are making our way into Rome.


12:00
After another autogrill, they chuck a movie up on the tv on the bus..Gladiator, to continue the Roman Theme!  It's pretty sweet, with two screens on the bus and a cool system like airplanes for your headphones with music and the movie it's pretty cool. And they play flight of the Concords!


5:15
Very exciting to think we are gonna be in one of the oldest city's in the world! Our guide John-the american gives us the low down on Rome and the history surrounding the roman empire etc.


As you com into each city they give you some history, and so things to do an offer you some suggestions and excursions to do in each of the city's. In Rome we have chosen to do two walking tours, as we are only there for 2 days and there is a alot to see.


5:30
We arrive at Camping Roma our BusAbout accommodation. The thing about Busabout is that they have investigated the decent hostels around Europe and stop right in front of one in each city. You can choose to stay wherever you like, but usually the one they choose has a good rating and you get dropped off right in front of the door so it makes it alot easier. And it's a great way to make friends with other people from the bus!


And that's a day one the Blue Lady!

Friday, August 5, 2011

3 months on a Bus

We are travelling Europe via the Busabout network of buses.. We had investigated loads of different methods to travel around including(prices approx for 2persons)

  • Eurail-rail for non-European residents
    +flexibility of travel
    - high cost €1000-2000
    - booking fees on top of ticket prices, so
    30 plus per trip
    -selected countries only in our price range
  • Flights-with 'luxury' airlines such as Ryan Air and Easy Jet
    +certain flights extremely cheap,i.e. Mardrid-Paris for €6
    -some flights were extremely expensive when booking close to the date of flight €600
    -annoyance of having to get to and from airports so frequently
  • Inter-rail- Europe rail network for Euro residents
    + cheap fares for residents,ie 2 months for €600-1000
    - booking fees on top of ticket prices
    - our residents for Europe doesn't come through for 6 months
  • Eurolines- Europe wide bus/coach network
    +cheap fares, 2 months all country's €600
    + ease of booking and locations
    - after reading fine print..only international travel only so no inter country travel which was very important for us in Spain and Italy and France
  • Rideshare - organised hitched hiking/carpooling website.connecting drivers and passengers for Europe wide private shared travel.
    +flexibility of destinations
    + affordability, eg. Frankfurt, Germany to Zwolle, Nederlands-400kms for €50!!
    -could get murdered, pillaged, you liver stolen or all of the above as you don't know these people..
    - slight gamble as to whether there will be ride available, most only on website 1-2 weeks date of travel

We also looked at length at any other way to do it using a combination of the above.


So then there was busabout, a company that has buses running every 2 days around various curfuits all around Europe.

+flexiblity of travel
+ not an organized tour, hop on hop off as you like. Rejoin at anytime or place in the network
+ buses drop you off right outside decent accommodation
+ great way to make mates and meet people in similar situation and age.
+student discount
-during peak season you need to be booked 10-14
 days ahead with buses and accommodation as it's quite busy
- 98% Australians(joking), least they understand how we speaks bro!!
- quite expensive.. €1600

We have been on the Busabout network now for about 4 weeks and it's been good. It's great to meet people and the coaches are nice and new and the guides and drivers (most of them) are cool!

We are making about 16 stops in total , starting in Amsterdam most of the compulsory overnight ones, staying for between 3-7 nights in each place. Check out the Map and you can see the network of bus trips availible.




Monday, August 1, 2011

Venezia: Even the name is awesome!

From Prague we were headed for Venice, spending a pit stop night in Munich. Boarding the 8am bus from Munich to Venice, I hear a faint and confused "Jaz?" from the rear of the coach. I turned to see three very beautiful and rather familiar faces! Tess, Cara and Jess were on Busabout!!
We had a very welcome catch up and said goodbye once they left the coach at Innsbruck, planning to catch up in 2 days time in Venice.

The journey into Italy was incredibly scenic, exactly what the postcards portray, there are castles resting on cliffs complete with private gardens and fortified walls. Can’t even think how they managed to haul all the stone up there back in the day! The drive was literally breath taking; constantly pinching myself to make sure we were actually here. We got off the bus, for our first rest stop in Italy and were hit with heat; finally Europe is bringing on its summer! 

The camp site we stayed at was great, a big pool with loungers around it, a restaurant and a few bars. Slinging up the hammocks we bought in Cambodia, we took a few days here and there to relax. I think we are really getting the hang of this travel/ relax thing have left and the locals are around to make it far more authentic. 

We woke up the next morning, (excited to get don our shorts and singlet for the first time since Asia) eager to explore Venice. We ventured in with Kate and Charlotte, the delicious sisters from Melbourne! Kate sorted all the buses and made sure we caught the right ones, and we were all glued to the windows as the city was revealed to us. We jumped off the bus and joined the throngs of tourists. 

I’m struggling for words to describe what we saw; the streets are cobbled and carless. The streets vary from huge piazzas to tiny alleyways that you have to squeeze past the locals. We did away with the maps and used the Grand Canal as our bearing, trying to navigate the hundreds of bridges and canals. You can’t see anything, as the buildings are around 4 or 5 stories high and the streets are tight, so it’s hard to get any kind of landmark. We weaved our way around for a few hours, stopping for tear inducing gelato and fresh pizza, and then we stumble into the incredible San Marco Square. With the St Mark's Basilica on our left and the impressive palace on our right and San Marco's Square  smothered in tourists spread out in front of us.

Stretching out ahead, the waterfront was lined with countless gondola. View after view is just picture perfect! We had lunch and retraced our steps, watching the counterfeit bag sellers run away from the Venezia Polizia. Rick snapped a great shot of one of the sellers hiding down an alley way. The sellers are so sneaky, the lay out all the knock off bags on a sheet so if the need to make a quick getaway they can just grab them all up in one sweep and hoof it.

Rick sniffed out a motorbike and befriended the rider, Ryan who was spending 3 months around Europe... initially with a friend, but now by himself as his mate broke his wrist after a fall off his bike. We captured him and we met up with Tess, Cara and Jess again. They had only one night in Venice, and with no Kate to direct the public transport, we ended up rather lost. We took the number 45 bus in the wrong direction, and had to take a tram to where we could catch a bus into Venice. Asking a few locals which bus we needed to take we see the number 4 drive past us, that was our bus! So we all bolted down the street, chasing the bus. Ryan and Rick made it first, asking the bus driver to wait for us. Cara and Tess jumped on and as Jess and I ran up the bus started pulling away! Ryan pushed the emergency button and the bus driver was yelling obscenities, and Jess and I leaped onto the moving bus with the doors closing right on our tails. In hope that it was actually the right bus, we asked an Italian couple behind us, and he said we had the wrong bus. After all that! After both us and the Italians consulting the driver it turns out we were on the right bus and the Italians had the wrong bus! Tourists 1/ Italians 0. After our marathon of public transport, we finally made it to Venice.

Venice evenings are beautiful, the ambience is incredibly romantic. We witnessed the flooding of Venice, where the Piazza is flooded every 3 or 4 days, due to the high tides. It was so cool to see everyone wading through the water and the men picking up their female counterparts so they won’t ruin their shoes. The flooding was definitely one of Rick's highlights, just so beautiful with all the lights reflected off the deep pools of water.

Heading home, we paced through the Venice jungle and jumped on a bus leaving Venice as it was midnight and there was a thunderstorm... only to approach the end of the line in the middle of nowhere with the bus driver's exclamation of "Finito!!!".  We disembark into the rain in the small hours of the morning. Ryan had a cell phone and we decided to call the camping ground hoping they would order a taxi for us. They issued us a taxi company number which we rang but to no avail.

Rick suggested we walk back towards the town we passed through to find a pub or gas station. We managed to flag down a police car a few hundred metres into our walk, who were very kind to call us a taxi, especially as we had no idea where we were. 10 minutes later we scrambled into a taxi, waiting for our wallets to get reamed, as we were blatantly desperate tourists. With €10 on the metre before we even left. The final fare of €25 was far less than we expected. So glad to see our beds in our minuscule cabin, we peeled off our damp clothes and crashed.

Venice is our favourite city so far. Just the immense contrast to anything we’ve ever seen, the tourists put a little dampener on the atmosphere, but come out in the evening and a vast majority of the people roaming the streets are local, or Italian at the very least!

Xx Love, Jaz